FOUR SEASONS HUALALAI

Ground-level rooms have outdoor garden showers. Bungalows are large and cozy, with down comforters and spacious slate-floor bathrooms. One of the five pools, called King's Pond, is a brackish water pond with loads of fish and two manta rays that guests have the opportunity to feed daily.

The main infinity pool looks like something out of an ad for an expensive liquor -- it's long and peaceful, surrounded by cabanas and palm trees with a clear view to the ocean beyond.

The on-site Hawaiian Cultural Center honors the grounds' spiritual heritage, and the sports club and spa offer top-rate health and fitness options. Hualalai's golf course hosts the Senior PGA Tournament of Champions.

Despite its quiet luxury, the resort is also super kid-friendly, with a great activities program, and a few pool options for families. The downside is this: despite valiant efforts to the contrary, the Four Seasons doesn't feel much like Hawai'i; add to that the number of guests who will be squawking on their cell phones next to you at the pool (despite the sign reading no cell phones), and you can see why some folks avoid this place.

Still, it is beautiful, the restaurants are fantastic (the infamous Alan Wong operates the Hualalai Grill and Pahui'a serves up the best beachfront Sunday brunch on the island), the rooms are more than comfortable, and the service is definitely of Four Seasons quality.

FOUR SEASONS HUALALAI